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How to adjust EB12 Bridge [ Cort }

Hi , does anybody know the adjustment sequence on these bridges , fitted to basically all the Cort Artisan series . It has the normal 2 allen screws on the saddle either side of the string for the left/right height , but also has a short allen screw behind the RH screw , cant seem to see what that does . its only about 3mm long . Id like a bit lower action and it seems bottomed out . Any tips ? Thanks in advance
 
The screws on the bridge are for action height, so affect intonation, but the screws next to the string ends on the bridge are what adjust the saddle position along the string, and also affect intonation. I managed to set up my own Cort B5FL after having tapewound rotosound 88's fitted. The guy in the shop fitted the string, and dropped the action as low as it would go. Later I played with the saddle position to ensure the intonation of open ant 12th fret were aligned using a decent tuner (korg pitchblack). I set the harmonic directly between the dots on the 12th first. This involved bringing the saddles right back to the bridge for the B and E string, but it just about worked. However later I adjusted it so the harmonic on the 12th is aligned to the left dot. This allows me to compensate for the alignment / stretch issues when playing. Hope that helps.

Experienced bassist picked up my bass the other day and commented on how well it was set up. Its my first bass, feels so comfy, plays to my liking and I love it. Hail the Cort - I only paid £199 sterling.
 
I should add that I looked at videos on youtube from luthiers about instrument setup before I dabbled. The rotosound 88's are low tension strings (so I was told) and so no truss rod adjustment took place when they were fitted (the action height was middle on the setup when I bought it. They guy in the shop checked it and also commented that there was little room left to adjust it anyway. He also dissed my bass and said that when I pick up an expensive one, not Asian made with the narrow string spacing that I would get the difference and want to upgrade.

Later I went to a shop and played with some pricey basses including a 1970's Fender Jazz, and i didn't understand what he was talking about. He had said it would not be worth upgrading my guitar (commented about the narrow neck restricting putting in a wider bridge). The thing I hate about my guitar is I have rattling tuning machines. They are licensed hipshots not original hipshots (also pointed out by guitar in shop). If anything I will replace the machine heads or find another solution - but I will keep this guitar for the rest of my life. It feels much nicer than any £1500 guitar I picked up so far. The 3 band 3 eq seems to have a massive range of tones (making it hard to find good tones to match tunes playing along to).
 
The answer is so simple. Those allen screws are there to lock the small cylinder which string lays on. When you release it, you can move the string to the side (with the small cylinder mentioned before) and change spacing. After getting the string to the desired position, lock the cylinder by tightening the allen screw not to move the string back anymore.
 
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